Mirant cosetes pels foros sempre surt aquella típica pregunta: "Quin és el número màxim de kilòmetres que heu vist o fet a una moto???".
M'he trobat un parell de curiositats i us les poso per aquí haviam que us sembla:
El primer és aquest paio que li ha fet més de 700.000km's a la GS:
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/w ... cle-4913-2So the question was asked by me first, and I got the best answer just few days ago when I met Hank from US here in Chile:
His 1995 R1100GS has seen 707 000 km of road, dirtroad and offroad.
What's the most amazing about it all is that the engine is ALL stock: bores, pistons, rings, big end bearings and the whole valvetrain! The only things replaced on the engine are the two plastic camchain directors. Compression is still good and oil consumption within limits.
Elsewhere it's one set of gearbox bearings and he's on 4th final drive main bearing, if I'm not mistaken (giving the average for the bearing over 175 000km per bearing (how many chain set it would be?)). Last one he replaced in Colombia, in a hotel room - it's doable everywhere if you carry a spare unlike many (speculating-) people who think you're on the road once it goes. God knows how much consumables: tankfulls, tyres, filters, sparkplugs, clutch plates etc.
I've never seen such a mileage on any dualsport purpose bike. I've seen one Africa Twin, which is considered one of the most reliable from the japanese dual-sport trail bikes, close to 300 000km, but it was about to have complete engine overhaul because there wasn't much compression left and valvetrain was completely worn. I've heard about similar milage on Honda GoldWing, but that's a tarmac-only tourer and never sees the abuse like many of well-travelled GSes see (i.e. Hank came just through Bolivias worst parts-offroad).
Anyways, my 1998 R1100GS with just 109 000km looks like run-in baby compared to Hank's R1100GS with 7 times of this mileage!
Ride safe, Margus
Bàsicament ve a dir que el motor pràcticament no s'ha tocat tret dels consumibles, una caixa de canvis y els rodaments del cardan en quatre ocasions. Aqui la pàgina del pàio, que sembla que és mecànic de BMW
http://www.motohank.com/Machine.html
I ja fa temps que coneixia aquesta pàgina de Guzzi americana on hi ha un anglés que a la seva V50 li ha fet gairebé mig milió de quilòmetres... I el millor de tot és que sense cuidar-la massa...
http://archive.guzzitech.com/100k/100k.html
Derek Reynolds
1982 V50III
308,000 miles
(1) 1982 V50III 308,000 miles (English ones!) 34,000 when purchased second hand.
(2) Highway
(3) Not the cheapest, but near that end of the spectrum, multigrade SAE 15-40.
(4) Oh boy! Oil change between 5,000 - 8,000 miles, filter every other oil change. Gearbox oil every fourth engine change, rear drive oil change likewise - this is vital for the life of the drive box. Flush out carbs every month (please remember this machine has regularly done 1,200 - 1,500 miles per week). Used to check tappet clearances monthly, but so little changed I leave them alone for ten thousand plus, even then there is often nothing to change, perhaps half a thou on an intake valve. Valves must be changed at no higher than 60,000 mile intervals to avoid breakage. I believe that 45,000 is recommended. My first set broke at 107,000 miles, through ignorance. Second set were acclaimed to be stainless and I ran them long. They broke exactly the same mileage 107,000! Third set were from a second pair of heads and I had forgotten the previous mileage on them. They broke too! Current set have done 50,000 - they'll be out in ten!!
Valve seats have been changed to hardened type. Check oil level and tyre pressures daily. Air filter changed to washable foam, cleaned now and then (there are no deserts over here). Check generator brushes for wear monthly. Check and oil gear change pivots and linkages weekly, likewise brake pivots and linkage. Cable nipples and lever pivots oiled, nylon lined cables benefit from silicon lubricant monthly. Change brake fluid every six months. Check for wear of brake calipers - where the leading edge of the pads press against the caliper under braking, is a major point of wear. This can cause pads to 'lock on' slightly and give a notchy feel upon application. Always use Ferodo pads, replaced when worn out and I do mean WORN OUT. They are miserly thin.
Clean holes in brake discs monthly. Check for play in swing arm, wheel and steering bearings weekly. Front wheel bearings are the first to go, 20 - 25,000. Steering bearings replaced with taper roller type from Dave Degens. First set lasted 210,000miles. Second set due for replacement after 80,000. This I believe largely due to the increasing proliferation of 'speed humps' on urban streets as well as industrial areas. Swing arm bearings replaced once, rear wheel bearings last 'forever'. Rear drive shaft MUST be packed with grease every six weeks. This includes stuffing as much as can be in and around the UJ cross piece. This last act has given a complete lack of wear in the UJ. One shaft UJ, after 120,000 miles, was as snug and smooth as the day it was new. Sadly the same cannot be said of the splines of the shaft, especially the tail end. Even after regular greasing, after 120,000 the splines had worn away to just half a millimeter thick.
A similar and worse affliction of the V50 is the speedo drive. This little box of Veglia has gears which are made from a close relative of 'Play-Doh'. My seventh gave up last October. Haven't bothered replacing with another �54 piece of kids stuff (think I know how fast I am going after this sort of mileage on the same bike!). May get an electronic after market speedo some day. Make sure the clutch operating arm is free and oiled monthly (sod of a job). Fuse box - check that all fuse ends are clean and free of corrosion! Some very strange anomalies in the electric circuitry can be produced by dirty fuses!!
(5) Valve failure (3 times): This amounts to the valve head (usually the exhaust) breaking off of the stem and exploring other parts of the
engine. The last time it happened to me, I found the head resting in the rubber connecting piece to the carburetor (it had taken the inlet valve head out in it's wanderings and gone that way to have a look see. The inlet valve head was wedged into a cave it had been busy digging in the piston crown.
Clutch failure: To be exact, failure of the concentric shock absorber springs and their cages. The springs are held sandwiched between plates of spring steel. From new, some are not entirely tight in their captivity. When wear takes place through usage and vibration, they move, enlarging the space in which they are held. The movement increases the wear in and round the spring and of the spring itself ultimately breaking pieces off of the spring and the surrounding metal. A tell-tale sound of tinkling can occasionally be heard as if running over a piece of discarded car trim. This may also be accompanied by the loss of the timing bung and 'things' brushing the right leg, feeling like pieces of gravel flicked up from the road. This is caused by the flaying around in the clutch housing of small bits of steel, previously of spring or clutch, finding any soft place to penetrate in an attempt to escape the 6,000rpm blender. The bung is the first to go, after which they can brush past the leg on their way to freedom. Do not ride without protection of the right lower leg if your clutch is suspect. My last clutch failure was of the explosive type, where the aforementioned wear had caused the clutch friction plate to be forced apart by a quarter of an inch, leaving me with a clutch that would not disengage. The clutch housing and clutch looked like someone had let off several rounds of twelve bore at them. I got home with it though.
Cam chain tensioner failure: Almost not noticeable except for the rattle. (Wonderfully quiet after replacement!)
Generator failure: More often than not worn brushes, though rotor did Fail once. (Bosch).
Starter motor failure(3 times): Once due to broken braided copper connection between the field windings and solenoid (easily fixed once
detected), once through excessive wear of the bendix on the shaft causing pinion to jam on ring gear and once through a short in the field windings caused by a loose armature magnet, (all Bosch components - humph - to the 'Bosch').
Electrical failures: Once, due to wear of ignition switch contacts (all failed), several times due to corrosion of plated terminal blocks in
the harness, the penultimate weirdest where the headlight extinguished simultaneously to the engine cutting out when the brakes were applied, Caused by a dirty fuse. But the ultimate has to be receiving HT shocks from both handlebars whist feeding in the clutch doing full lock turns in wet weather. Picture the scene: Having pulled across the road into a driveway to make a delivery, I am back on the bike facing oncoming traffic. A gap appears in traffic and I feed out the clutch on full lock to do a 180 degree turn into the gap. Just as the clutch is almost out and I am half way through the manoeuvre, I get machine gun shocks up BOTH arms. Involuntary facial contortions follow. One is inclined to let go, but simply cannot -survival instinct and all that. A check of all circuitry around the coils found no insulation failure. The cause therefore is down the name on the tank. (It has been thus apportioned by a Guzzi guru).
Gearchange return springs have broken twice. The original (?) was broken, though it changed ok, just a bit reluctant to return to centre after downward changes, then the replacement broke 8,000 miles later! Since then I changed one when the box was down 40,000m later hough it was not broken. Nothing since.
(6) So many I have forgotten some. Braided brake hoses; Piranha electronic inition (an absolute MUST. Bin the points a.s.a.p.) Dyna coils; taper roller steering head bearings; home made air filtration box with foam insert; modified oilway within rear drive box as per Dave Richardsons "Guzziology" to better feed forward pinion bearing; drilled crankshaft thrust bearing creating an reservoir for oil as per Dave Richardson again; altered wiring in headlight flasher to bring main beam on instead of dip; re-wiring of starter relay (DR again); insert relay for headlight dip and main along with a Xenon bulb (together they make daylight out of darkness at the same wattage); stainless pipes and exhaust; heated grips with monster handlebar muffs enable gloveless riding nearly all year (essential if you want to'feel' what's happening); Le-Mans II style handlebar fairing with extended upper screen. Other stuff, and topped off with my old luggage - early
SwagMan tank bags, throw over panniers, an old Craven Golden Arrow pannier as top box (scoot boot?) mounted on the pillion for better weight distribution, and the rattiest tank top bag you have ever seen (but as it still holds my waterproofs well enough, I'm not inclined to replace it).
Oh - and a road kill seat cover. Sheep. Cool.
(7) Change the terminal blocks in the wiring harness for good quality ones. Grease that shaft and UJ. Use electronic ignition. Ride safe, but RIDE! (And keep smiling!)
Derek Reynolds
UK
derekreynolds@tesco.net
Per aquí en Pedro sempre ens diu que a la seva T3 li va arribar a fer més de 300.000 kilòmetres... I hi ha en KUK, de Tarragona que a la seva k100 està a punt d'arribar a aquesta xifra també.
I jo que acabo de fer els 100.000 i ja em penso que son molts....
